By Hansjörg Schallenberg

When I was writing this article, I realized, that Microsoft forgot to add the name of one or if not the most famous chefs in culinary history to their spell check.

That is maybe the reason why the name of this very famous culinary personality Auguste Escoffier is often misspelled. Born in 1847, this French chef is not known to everybody in the world, or many know his name and maybe one of his more famous books “Le Guide Culinaire”.

However it can be said, it is worthwhile to know a little bit more about this Great Master Chef, as it is not untrue when saying that gastronomy, the art or science of good eating, can be thankful for the imparted knowledge of this great chef, which we still are sharing today with the new generations of young chefs. Therefore I do believe that all chefs of this world should follow him as a true example and follow in his footsteps of excellence.

Born to a very simple family, his father was a humble hoofsmith. He then worked at a young age for his aunt who owned a small hotel in the South of France. As Escoffier grew in his culinary career, it showed that his talent did not only lie in cooking, but he was at the same time an architect, sculpture and stone carver. All these talents combined made him the most celebrated chef in history.

His strong beliefs in culinary arts and his eyes of perfection as an artist were the foundations of his professional career.

It was during the first French culinary exhibition in Paris (1882), when Escoffier demonstrated the art of decorating platters and other buffet displays with wax flowers. The art to work with wax, which was ignored at that time suddenly became the talk among all professionals, and the name Escoffier became eponymous to the art.

It was in 1885, when Escoffier published his first book under the title “Traité sur l’art de travailler les fleurs en cire”.

However let’s not go too fast in the highly interesting career of this Great Master Chef and therefore learn about his life and works in chronological order.

I hope the following biography which will be written in two parts, will help to shake up or wake up some older chefs of today as many, calling themselves chefs today, are not even worthy to carry the title. I know of some who cannot even prepare a proper meal and whose idea of cooking is often relegated to opening bottles, cans or dissolving instant mix in water.

I hope this biography of Escoffier will touch the young chefs and culinary students of today. For them to understand, that being a professional chef means working hard in their lifetime if they want to make a difference and be remembered. You can be a famous chef standing in front of a TV camera, but the real question is “Are you a good chef, or can you just talk?”.

Escoffier is the right person to name and the epitome of a good and truly successful chef. His formula was simply a lifetime of hard work, research and creation and with that came success one after another. He is still being remembered and his great works being read 70 years after his death. He truly deserves a rightful place as the greatest chef in the annals of culinary history.




Biography of August Escoffier (1847 – 1935)

1859:
At the age of 12, Escoffier started his culinary apprenticeship in the small hotel of his aunt in Nice (Southern France).

By the time he was 18, Ulysee Rohant, the chef of the famous restaurant “Petit Moulin Rouge” brought Escoffier to Paris. Escoffier and Rohant built a true relationship of master and student, which clearly showed years later, when Rohant encountered financial problems, it was the thankful student who stood by his side and supported him. Escoffier gave him the license of his first book and with that Rohant lived comfortably until his death.

1867:
At the age of 20 years, Escoffier was ordered to do his compulsory military service in the infantry division.

1870:
It was in 1870, when the German / French war broke out and he was called from his work place at “Petit Moulin Rouge” by a former military instructor, to join the army in the fortress of Metz. This French officer obviously choose Escoffier, as he was aware of the culinary talent of this young man.

It was with the defeat of the French in this war that Escoffier became a war prisoner and eventually got out of prison (thru mysterious circumstances) with the help of the general manager of the “Kursaal” in Wiesbaden (Germany). Escoffier served thereafter in the kitchen brigade under the well known General Mac – Mahon, who later became the president of the republic. It was at a later time, when Escoffier recounted the memories of that time openly in a professional newspaper, which obviously was not the best time of his life.

After many years a way from home, Escoffier eventually enjoyed freedom again and went back to the “Petit Moulin Rouge”, this time as the Master Chef.

1875:
In the year 1875, nothing could hold him back to join the “Hôtel du Luxembourg”, right back home, were he started his culinary career at the age of 12. He wanted to show people back home what is expected from a professional hotel cook. Four years later he went south to work in Cannes where he gave the restaurant “Faison doré” a great name.

However as time passed, Escoffier decided to return to Paris, a place during his time, which was the culinary platform of the world.

1881:
Therefore, shortly before 1881, he returned to Paris and with that move in his life, his true career as a “Master Chef” started. He could meet again with professional friends (other chefs), to discuss the new way of culinary arts, which eventually became the new trend, a trend which is still being practiced today thru the basic preparations and methods. Escoffier and his friends looked at the problem of the good old kitchen, a kitchen mainly for the rich, expensive and producing (very often) unhealthy food. They started to look at the new kitchen from a social and economical point of view and with that a new culinary revolution was born.

Back in Paris, he first worked as the Chef in the restaurant “Maire”. However, he soon transferred to the world famous catering company “Chevet” and occupied the position of Head Chef at the age of 35. At that time, that was an incredible achievement. “Chevet” at that time was the official caterer for the “Palais Royal” in Paris and with that have connection with all the rich and famous of Europe. The owner of the “Maison Chevet” was originally a poor but talented rose farmer who delivered his flowers throughout Europe and eventually to most royalties.

“Chevet” delivered dinners complete with silver cutlery, chinaware and a brigade of chefs as far as Saint Petersburg (Russia). This catering facility was also the first one to serve the very the first dinner in the Eiffel Tower in 1898, a dinner which was hosted by nobody less than Mr. Eiffel himself.

Further the “Maison Chevet” was involved with the development of canned goods and it also was Escoffier who improved many canning methods.

It was during this time that Escoffier bloomed, as he had the chance to taste new ingredients and to try out and develop new dishes. He could do just about anything his heart desired.

Discover in the next article more about the life of this Great Master Chef, a man truly deserving the title. A man that has helped shape the culinary world and has been a beacon of learning and a source of inspiration to the countless chefs who in their own ways have contributed much to society.


For any comments, such as wrong dates or wrong facts as may have been published in other books, I am open to receive them and will check back with the author’s son about the source of information. (Harry Schraemli, “vom Lucullus zum Escoffier”)


Hans Schallenberg, is the co-founder and Director for Hotel Operations of the International School for Culinary Arts & Hotel Management (ISCAHM), 4th floor FBR Arcade, Katipunan Avenue, Loyola Heights, Quezon City. Tel Nos. (632) 920-1481 and 926-8888. Website: www.iscahm.com, e-mail: sales@iscahm.com